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Showing posts with label Grub Worms. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grub Worms. Show all posts

Sunday, May 20, 2018

What Are Grubs?

Grub Identification:

Lawn Grub Larvae
Grubs are the hatchlings of an assortment of numerous insects, including Japanese bugs and June Bugs.

These insects normally lay eggs in July that incubate in around 2 a month. The new hatchlings start encouraging very quickly in the wake of bring forth. In this way, grub harm normally starts indicating mid-August and September, albeit diverse grub hatchlings can begin prior or later relying upon the sort of creepy crawly.

A full developed grub is roughly 2". They for the most part begin all white and as they develop, build up a dim last part (around 3 a month).

Grub Life/Feeding Cycle:

The life-cycle of grubs in the yard is about a year.

As the winter approaches, the grubs will wander further in the dirt to sleep. They return back to the root layer again in the spring to bolster and form into insects around May relying upon the area.

In spite of the fact that grubs may as of now be in the yard bolstering in the spring, the grass will hint at the most noticeable harm in the mid year when the garden is the most focused.

Friday, December 4, 2015

White Grubs –the larvae of scarab beetles

White Grubs –the larvae of scarab beetles –are a growing concern in field crops in Indiana, Michigan, Ontario, and Ohio (I-MOO). Early in the season, grubs feed on germinating seeds and small plants, reducing plant stand. Later in the season, grubs feed on corn and soybean roots, reducing root mass and impacting water & nutrient uptake and standability. Grub-feeding on tuber crops such as sugar beets directly impacts tuber size and quality.
Grub identification is important because there are multiple species present in the Midwest, and these species differ in life cycle and damage. Most species have a single-year (annual) life cycle, with only one generation per year, but some June beetles have a multi-year life cycle. Annual grubs stop feeding in the spring, and may be avoided by adjusting planting time, but a field infested with June beetle may be infested for several seasons. Some grubs pupate earlier in the season (European chafer) than others (Japanese beetle). Adults of the different species also differ in behavior and damage. European chafer beetles are a nuisance around lights, but do not feed. In contrast, Japanese and Asiatic garden beetles do feed and cause damage in the adult stage.

Grubs are naturally C-shaped, and it is sometimes difficult to make them lay flat. Unfortunately, important characters for identification are on the butt-end of the grub (arrow in pictures). These includes the shape of the anal slit(the anal opening of the insect) and the raster pattern(pattern of hairs and spines in front of the anal slit).
The easiest way to view the anal slit and raster pattern is to cut off the end of the grub and put it upright in a dish of water or alcohol. If it is important to keep the specimen intact, set the dead grub in a small dish of fine sand (such as play-ground sand). This allows you to position the grub with the hind end facing up.
Grub set upward in sand
…or cut off the back end.
Asiatic garden beetle Annual grub
Chestnut colored & Barrel-shaped
Adults feed on many plants.
Anal slit: strongly Y-shaped
Raster: crescent-shaped row of spines
Japanese beetle Annual grub
Metallic green/ purple. Adults feed.
Note tufts of white hairs along abdomen
Anal slit: Crescent-shaped
Raster pattern: Triangular
European chafer Annual grub
Adults do not feed
Anal slit: Y-shaped
Raster: Diverging rows of spines
(= opening zipper)
May/ June beetlesMulti-year grub
Large beetles, often dark, some green
Anal slit: Y-shaped
Raster pattern: Parallel rows of spines
(= closed zipper)
False Japanese beetle Annual grub
Abdomen lacks white tufts
Anal slit: Crescent-shaped
Raster: Short row of converging spines
Oriental beetle Annual grub
Multiple color forms
Anal slit: crescent-shaped
Raster: 2 rows of spines
–one small & one large
Manure (Aphodius) grubs Annual grub
Grubs are small; adults are small dung beetles
Common in manured fields
Raster: undefined, with “pads”
D. Shetlar
C. Krupke
D. Shetla

Monday, September 7, 2015

Gateshead Millennium Bridge: World’s Only Tilting Bridge

The Gateshead Millennium Bridge is a pedestrian and cyclist bridge spanning River Tyne in England between Gateshead's Quays arts quarter on the south bank, and the Quayside of Newcastle on the north bank. The bridge is essentially two graceful curves, one forming the deck and the other supporting it, spanning between the two islands running parallel to the quaysides. To allow ships to pass underneath, this whole assembly rotates as a single, rigid structure. As the arch tilts lower, the pathway rises, each counterbalancing the other, and a pathway over the river is formed. The parabolic curves of the deck extend the 105m crossing distance to around 120m, giving enough extra length to provide the required clearance above the water. The appearance of the bridge when in motion leads to it sometimes being called the 'Blinking Eye Bridge' or the 'Winking Eye Bridge’ since its shape is akin to the blinking of an eye if seen from along the river. Visually elegant when static and in motion, the bridge offers a great spectacle during its operation.
The bridge is operated by six 45 cm diameter Hydraulic rams, three on each side, and each powered by a 55 kW electric motor. Small ships and boats up to 25 meters tall can pass underneath. The bridge takes as little as 4.5 minutes to rotate through the full 40° from closed to open, depending on wind speed.
The construction of the bridge won the architects Wilkinson Eyre the 2002 Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) Stirling Prize, the 2003 Gifford IStructE Supreme Award, and in 2005, the Outstanding Structure Award from International Association for Bridge and Structural Engineering (IABSE).
Watch the video of the bridge in operation at the end of this picture gallery.

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

White Grub Control Alternatives

White Grub Control Alternatives

It is very difficult to use an IPM (Integrated Pest Management) approach to white grubs in turfgrass.  Turfgrass often has a very high value – either monetary value (golf courses and sod farms) or aesthetic/emotional value (home lawns).  White grub infestations are highly variable from year to year and from place to place.  Damage is spotty, localized and impossible to predict.
Monitoring, one of the keystones of IPM is not practical for white grubs under most circumstances.  Inspection for grubs requires cutting and lifting flaps of turf and looking for grubs below the thatch level.  This is difficult, time consuming and potentially damaging.  Research has indicated that the number of samples necessary is too large to be practical. 
Studies at Cornell University have shown that over 70 percent of all grub control treatments were applied needlessly because there were no grubs in the lawn. Many homeowners are frightened into applying grub controls because of advertisements on TV, in plant centers, or because of horror stories they have heard about grub damage. Most grub treatments are not only expensive but hard to justify from an environmental standpoint.
There are 3 approaches to grub management in the home lawn, depending on your tolerance for damage, comfort with pesticides and willingness to spend the cash.
#1. The Golf Course Approach:  Treat every part of the lawn, every year because you might have white grubs and heavy use of high-price insecticide is preferable to ANY white grub damage.  The available insecticides for grub prevention are imidacloprid (Merit®, Grub-Ex®) and halofenozide (Mach 2®, Grub-B-Gon®).  These must be applied before early August to prevent damage.  A compromise modification of the Golf-Course Approach is to treat only those areas of previous damage.  Grubs tend to return to the same areas in successive years, so it is logical to treat the areas where you had grubs last year or the year before.
#2.  Wait-And-See Approach.  Watch the lawn carefully during August - September for early signs of damage (wilting, turning brown).  Apply a curative insecticide such as trichlorfon (Dylox, Bayer Advanced 24-Hour Grub Control) only where needed and when needed.  The risk is that you might still lose some sod, especially if summer rainfall or irrigation keeps the grass growing and vigorous through July and August.  Damage symptoms may not appear until after it is too late for effective treatment (late September through late October).  Unfortunately, raccoons and skunks are much better at locating grub populations than we are and the first hint of a grub problem in your turf is likely to be that your lawn was "plowed" by varmints overnight.
#3.  The Do-Nothing Approach.  Count up how many years you DID NOT have grub damage.  Divide the cost of replaced sod by that number of years.  If the yearly-averaged cost of sod is less than the price of insecticide, do nothing and take your lumps in the occasional year when damage occurs.  This approach is much easier to follow if your attitude is "it's just grass, anyway."
White grub management decisions are difficult and frustrating.  There is no one right answer for everyone.
White Grub by Jim Hill
White Grub by Jim Hill
see more here 

Saturday, May 16, 2015

CA 6 Essential Tips for Managing The White Culprit in San Jose

The Signs of the Times, You Might Have White Grub Worms

June is the beginning of summer, it also signifies the arrival of the June bug – the beetles that buzz around and seemingly wreck into everything that crosses there path can leave a mess. But the beetles of June that aren’t so fortunate as some, can emerge later, potentially causing much bigger landscape challenges, more than than a few dead insects on the pavement.

They lay there eggs like clockwork

June bugs lay their eggs like clockwork that ultimately evolve into the white grub worm, which has been known to severely cause damage on lawns and ornamental flower beds in and across Bay Area Landscapes. The grubs live below the soils surface and mature at about a five inch depth below and usually thrive in well-nourished soil for about a period of one year prior to emerging from the ground as the June bug.
While a sparse group of white grubs can actually be beneficial to lawn, by providing necessary oxygen for aeration and moisture, they can wreck lawn areas and do harm to the root system of plants, especially in uncontrolled environments. They have a tendency to be most prevalent in the Months of July and August causing the most visual damage at this time of the year.

They Feed on Lawns and Flowers

White grubs like to feed on cool season grasses, some of which include: perennial rye, Kentucky blue grass and tall fescue doing significant damage to their root system.

Identifying the White Culprit

Grub worms typically have a plump, white body with an orange or red head , grayish in color at the end of its body. Parts of their body are translucent in color and have a curled shape.
Also, be aware of Cut Worms and Army worms. Army worms are narrow and straight in length, a more dark color tone, and can be revealed with some yellow striping. Cut worms have a tendency to curl up like grubs but are tannish or green in color and may have obvious striping similar to Army worms. They can also be problematic causing root damage to your ornamental landscaping, flowers and turf areas.

The aftermath of the Damage

  • Landscapers with white grub damage may notice patches of dead grass. In addition, you may see raccoons and other wildlife like Skunk or other Pests digging up your lawn to get to the grubs. A high population of white grubs can result in grass that can be rolled up like carpeting. Furthermore, grass may feel bouncy as you walk across the lawn, according to the University of Davis. Healthy, densely growing grass with a moderate white grub population usually recovers from the damage.

How to Test for Grub Worms

  • Cut out 1 square foot of turf from the lawn with a masonry trowel to determine the severity of your white grub problem. If you find more than 10 grubs in the grass or dirt, consider options for treatment. You can control grubs through cultural practices if there are less than 10 in the turf patch. Landscapers may be tempted to treat grubs in the spring. However, late-summer pesticide applications are more effective because grubs have just hatched.

Cultural Treatment

  • Beetles look for moist soil to lay their eggs, so a dry lawn in the late summer is essential. Also, restricting water on your lawn will dry out the eggs. Gardeners can also check their thatch layer to see if it is more than 1/2 inch. If it is, it creates an optimal environment for grubs. If you decide to use pesticides, it is better to remove thick thatch so that the chemicals can be absorbed into the soil. Dethatch the lawn to remove grubs' environment and prepare the lawn for potential pesticide use.

Natural and Sustainable Landscaping Treatment

For those choosing a more natural and sustainable landscaping approach , there are several options available. All of which are considered safe and effective. These include milky spore, neem oil, and nematodes – available at most garden centers.
  • Milky spore is a disease that can effectively treat lawn grubs and is environmentally safe. Spores are applied to affected lawn areas, infecting lawn grubs as they feed. Once the grubs die and decompose, additional spores are released into the soil, which helps prevent further infestations.
  • Neem oil is a botanical pesticide containing insecticidal properties. Neem oil works more as a repellant against Japanese beetles and lawn grubs – inhibiting egg laying, growth and feeding. Neem oil is mixed with water (as directed) and sprayed onto affected lawn areas.
  • Nematodes are also used as natural grub treatment. These tiny, soil-dwelling worms release bacteria into the soil that infects and kills lawn grubs. Nematodes are available in liquid form or mixed with water and sprayed onto affected areas.

Chemical Treatment

  • Pesticides that contain imidacloprid or halofenozide should be applied between Aug. 1 and Sept. 15, according to local Universities. Apply the pesticide in the most severely damaged areas of the lawn. Water the pesticide after applying with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water so that it sinks into the soil. You can also forgo watering if afternoon showers are expected. Reapply the pesticide as recommended on the label.
Once you know how to detect grub worms and how to get rid of grub worms, you’ll be better equipped to treat the problem more effectively.

A Few Grub Worms are tolerable in the Landscape

It’s normal for grub worms to present themselves in bay area landscaping, especially those in favorable conditions, but don’t panic. In the summer months, it’s easy to be overly concerned about grub worm damage; although in many parts of Northern California they are not as active as one might think. A good practice is to begin treatments in July-August.
So please don’t worry; a few grub worms in the lawn aren’t worth losing sleep over. Just control them so they don’t get the best of your landscaping.
Challenged with Pests ? Leave it up to The Bay Area Landscape Pro's!
Regardless if you own or manage a Condominium complex, or have a portfolio of Office Buildings, FloraTerra is very experienced in the area of commercial landscape care, let us help you with your landscape challenges.

Experts in Landscape Management

FloraTerra  is a Leading Landscape company , we design, install and maintain environmental friendly landscaping , providing a complete range of landscaping services, including landscape pest control for Residential Estates, Retail Shopping Centers, Mixed Use Development, Apartments and Multi-Residential Communities, Home Owners Associations, Condominiums and Commercial Office Landscaping.
San Jose | Santa Clara | San Francisco Bay Area | Palo Alto | Sunnyvale | Los Altos | Saratoga | Los Gatos

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Grub Control for Lawns

Brown, dead patches of grass are tell-tale signs of lawn grubs. These pests live a few inches underground and feed on your turf's roots. Often grubs go unnoticed until the damage is done. Don't despair, though. Proper lawn maintenance, preventative measures and, if needed, pest control treatments, can make your lawn green again.

Identifying grubs

Lawn grubs are larvae of various beetle species, such as Japanese, June, Asiatic and Masked Chafer beetles. They're often called white grubs, because the larvae are white with a brown head. White grubs are characterized by a C-shape, grow to one-half inch to an inch long and have six legs.
Adult beetles lay their eggs a few inches below your lawn's surface in late spring. A few weeks later when the eggs hatch, the larvae start growing - and eating your lawn's roots. The damage can continue through the summer.
With autumn's cooling temperatures, grubs move deeper in the ground where they spend the winter. When spring arrives, grubs migrate toward the surface to begin feeding again on the grass. When adult beetles mate and lay even more eggs, the cycle starts again.

What to look for

Grubs live a few inches under the grass. They eat the turf's roots, causing brown or yellow dry patches. It's often said you can pull that grass back like a carpet. Grub damage also makes the lawn more likely to die during hot, dry spells. Additionally, you may notice grub-loving birds feeding on your lawn, or signs of gophers and moles.
Homeowners can be fooled, though, by grass that looks healthy. Infested areas can remain green even as grubs munch away at the roots. The damage appears the next spring when grub-infested areas don't green up.
Grubs often re-infest the same areas year-after-year. Some patches are more attractive to beetles than others. They like open areas with consistently warm, moist soil.

Prevention and treatment

Dig into the soil of one of the bare spots. If you discover small white C-shaped creatures, you have grubs.
If you find only a few grubs, adequate water and fertilizer can help the turf recover, then reseed or resod the affected areas. A few grubs per square foot aren't troublesome to an otherwise healthy lawn. Treatment typically is recommended when eight to 10 grubs per square foot are discovered.
Proper yard care can help prevent grubs. Reduce lawn stress by planting an appropriate turf grass variety for your growing conditions. Take into account the soil type, sun exposure, climate and lawn use. Ask a Southern States lawn expert for suggestions about grass seed varieties that are best suited for your lawn.
Mow and water regularly. Deep turf watering is preferable to daily watering. Allowing your lawn to dry out between waterings turns it into an unattractive environment for grubs.
Because grubs encompass different beetle species, pest control results vary based on the product. Some are designed for prevention, others for treating existing grubs. The application timing matters too. Some species are best treated at the adult stage; others when the larvae are feeding close to the lawn surface. Because of their underground habitat, aeration can be beneficial when used in conjunction with pest control.
When choosing a treatment method, ask your local Southern States dealer for advice on grub control products.
Share your experiences with grub prevention and treatment with others in the comments below.
see more here 

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Beer and Grub Worms

Beer and Grub Worms

Some idiot came out a few years ago and said that beer kills grub worms. The truth is that enough beer will kill anything, including you. So, yes, beer kills grubs, and here’s how.
You need to soak the lawn clear into the soil with full strenght beer (not watered in because that waters it down too much). The grass plants take in the beer thru their roots and when the grubs feed, they “feel full” and quit eating and die. (this is the same way that the chemical grub control works also, using a compound referred to as a “neonicatanoid.”.. comes from “nicotine” like in cigarettes)
Anyway, so beer will work; sort-of, but let’s logic together first.
  1. Using beer is an expensive way to go. It would take a case of beer to cover a 10′ x 10′ spot completely, costing you about $15 for a 100 sq ft area. (assuming you drink Bud or Lite and not Old Mil-Water) You could get a real grub control that would cover your entire 5,000 sq foot lawn for that amount.
  2. Beer stinks like feet when it rots in the sun. Don’t ask me how I know this, but trust me, it smells really bad when it rots.
  3. How would you put it down? Are you going to just pour it out of the bottle? That won’t be even coverage.
  4. It’s just plain alcohol abuse to waste good beer on your grass! Beer is for drinking by the pool with some chips and salsa!
  5. Finally, who says that beer is a good alternative for the environment anyway? It rots your liver, so how good can it be for the earthworms’ livers? (well, gizzards anyway) Remember, earthworms are good for you lawn and soil and we don’t want to kill them in the process!

Whatever you do, be sure that you do something! I wouldn’t want your little patch of green love to be damaged by nasty grub worms this summer and fall.

Thursday, April 16, 2015

White grubs

Grubs, the larval stage of the beetle, are common lawn pests. They are off-white with a light brown head. Three pairs of legs are near the head of the grub January 2 inches (3 3/4 inches).

Most beetles have a life cycle three years causing most damage in the second year. In June, the adult lays eggs in the soil. Within two weeks, the grubs emerge. They feed during the hot summer months and during the winter deep in the ground. Early in the following summer, the larvae move near the soil surface and begin feeding again. They can cause significant damage in small numbers because of their voracious appetite. After a short feeding period during the third summer, the white grub pupates and turns into an adult. The adult (beetle June) overwinter in the soil and lay eggs, the following summer, completing its life cycle.

Grubs feed on grass, grass roots, and farm and garden crops. They feed on potato tubers, but prefer the fibrous roots of grass. The adult stage also feeds on flowers. Feeding white headless results in dead patches of grass that yellow and pull back as the freshly laid sod or thinning areas scattered grass dying for no apparent reason.

A healthy lawn is the best protection against white grubs. A watered well fertilized, aerated lawn provides resistance against the white grub attack. Good root growth is helpful for adults prefer to lay eggs in the fine grass.

Even with the best cultural practices, sometimes it becomes necessary to directly address this annual problem. AgriLawn two treatments that will help you eliminate and prevent this annoying problem damaging the turf.
Treatment Grub

If you have had this lock problems, it is important to eliminate the worms that live in your grass layer. For this treatment to be effective, ground temperatures must be high enough for the larvae come to the top layer of soil to nourish usually between April and November each year. This treatment is the same cost as your lawn program and can be added if you or your technician notice the signs of damage. We do not treat existing problems without your permission, you'll need to call us if you want to plan treatment.
Preventive grub

If you have had treatment headless in the past and you just want to prevent further infestation and preventive grub is in order. A preventive, unlike treatment prevents worm molting its phase pupate. The eggs that may be in the ground will not hatch and thus prevents the infestation of these insects destroy the lawn from becoming a problem. Timing is critical and this request must be made in June, which is the height of spawning activity.

Friday, April 25, 2014

Lovers eating insects in the world (photos)

According to the new report by the United Nations that eating larger quantities of insects that would contribute to the fight against hunger in the world.According to the report issued by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the International Organization of insects that eat nutritious for humans and would also reduce environmental pollution .
The organization says in its report that more than two billion people actually complete their own food to eat insects , but they say that '' shit '' shown by the consumer towards the western eat insects still constitutes a barrier to the spread of the phenomenon in many Western countries .The report stated that the wasps , beetles and other insects are not properly exploited as food for humans and livestock , adding that the insects are considered propagating '' methods of addressing the problem of food security . ''The report also '' insects are everywhere , and they reproduce quickly . Vllhacrat growth rates and shift diet high in addition to the low vulnerability of the environment. ''The authors of the report refers to the high nutritional value of insects , with high proportions of proteins, fats and minerals.They say that eating insects is '' very important , especially as an addition of food for children who suffer from malnutrition . ''The report stated that the insect has a very high efficiency in converting food consumed to meat man can be addressed , Vsrsar night , for example, consumes 12 times less food to produce the same amount of protein compared to cattle .In addition, the insects do not produce the same quantities produced by livestock of gases harmful to the environment , driven emissions of ammonia , for example, much less insects in farms than it is in the pastures of cattle and other animals that eat human pigs .The report suggests the food industry to strive to raise the profile of the insects '' and '' make it more receptive to the part of consumers - especially in Western countries - through annexation in cooking recipes and add them to the lists of meals in restaurants .The report indicates that some of the insects are considered lavish meals in a number of countries , for example South Africans look to some types of larvae bed as luxury cuisine and are therefore sold at high prices in that country .He says that most edible insects are caught in the woods , calling for the pursuit of improving the means of production of insects that are used for livestock feed .And concludes that '' the consumption of insects is widely used as animal feed is technically feasible , and that a number of companies in many parts of the world are already doing it . ''Speaking of lovers eating insects foot site '' CNN '' the most prominent places in the world to eat insects , worms and cockroaches from scorpions and others.Guide lovers eating insects in the world

- To eat Grub Worms  you visit Australia.
- If you are a fan of eating cockroaches, the best regions of the world are addressed in Laos.
Guide lovers eating insects in the world (photos)
- For fans of eating bamboo worm, the best destination for Thailand is addressed.
Guide lovers eating insects in the world (photos)
- Lovers eat spiders and ants red trees are advised to go to Cambodia.
Guide lovers eating insects in the world (photos)
- For lovers of small worms, the best places to be addressed is in the Netherlands.
Guide lovers eating insects in the world (photos)
- To eat scorpions and locusts then you should visit the Chinese capital, Beijing.
Guide lovers eating insects in the world (photos) 

- To eat silkworm, you'll visit South Korea.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

the white grub

In order to control the enemy, you must first understand it. This will help you create a plan of
action for battling the white grub and its alter-ego, the Japanese beetle. Declare war on them
before they wreak havoc on your lawn, ornamentals, and trees.
Meet: The Grub. Grubs are one of the most common lawn pests in the US and also one of the
most damaging to grass. The white grub is the larval stage of a more commonly known pest, the
Japanese beetle. The larva is approx. 1/2 inch long and is off white in color with a brown head.
According to Lance Walheim, Bayer Advanced expert and author of Lawn
Care for Dummies, these pests are so common in lawns that consumers now
spend more than $100 million annually to control them.
What is a Grub Worm? The grub worm is not exactly a worm, like your friend, the earthworm.
Grub worms are basically beetle larvae, or the babies of those beetles. Unlike earthworms that
fertilize your soil to make your plants and flowers healthy, grub worms ruin them by munching
on the roots of your plants, flowers, and grass in your lawn or garden. A healthy lawn can handle
a few grub worms in the soil and will do little or almost no apparent damage. After the eggs of
the beetle hatch and turn into larvae, they tunnel underground and start eating roots they see.
However, when there are more than 15 to 20 grub worms per square foot in your lawn or garden,
then that is a real problem. You surely will notice that you have a grub worm problem when the
condition of your lawn radically deteriorates.
Signs of Grub Worm Infestation Grub worms are real pests and can cost you a lot when they
damage your favorite (and expensive) plants and flowers. Here are some of the common signs of
grub worm infestation:
Droopy leaves
Green-gray or brown patches on your lawn.
Grass easily“peels” off.
Ground feels spongy to the feet.
Sudden death of plants, grass, or flowers.
Appearance of moles, armadillos, or other pests in your lawn.
Grub Worms: Why you should Get Rid of them Grub worms feed on the roots of plants and
the other things planted in your garden. Such actions severely affect them and eventually lead to
wilting, or the death of these plants. Roots of plants are very important organs. They are the ones
responsible of absorbing water and other essential nutrients from the soil to make the plant grow.
With them damaged or eaten up completely, the plant has no other means of absorbing nutrients
and water from the soil. When the roots are damaged, it may not be able to absorb the water and
nutrients the entire plant needs to function properly, that is why you see your plants, flowers, and
your grass droop, turn brown or gray, and eventually die. Aside from damaging your garden,
when there is a serious grub worm infestation, it will attract other animals or pests that feed on
them, making the problem even more serious. Examples of such creatures that eat grub worms are
armadillos, gophers, and moles. Though these creatures eat grub worms, they leave nasty burrows
and instantly damage your lawn or garden.
Eliminating Grub Worms? What to Do? Beetles usually lay their eggs during early summer.
After these eggs hatch, they turn into nasty pests, known as grub worms. Grub worms then tunnel
underground and feast on the roots of plants and grasses until the winter or fall season. If you will
notice, this sort of problem is like a cycle and it seems that there isn't a permanent solution to get
rid of them. It is a cycle because these grub worms will soon mature and turn into adult beetles,
and again, laying eggs in your lawn or garden that soon will become grub worms.
Natural way to Getting Rid of Grub Worms Here are the steps to rid your lawn or garden of
these grub worms naturally:
1. You already know you have a grub worm problem, now you have to determine when the
beetles start laying their eggs.
2. Nematodes are the natural enemies of grub worms. They infest and kill these pests.
However, they are only effective on young larvae. This is where your research will come
in. Once it is the season of beetles to lay their eggs, purchase nematodes from a gardening
store and follow the instructions indicated. Spray on your lawn or garden.
3. To offset the damage caused by the grub worms, keep your garden or lawn watered.
Abundant water will make the damaged roots easily absorb water.
4. Robins and other songbirds love grub worms. Have them in your garden and you will
have to worry less about those pests. This is probably the best long-term solution you
Grub worms are serious pests especially to those gardening enthusiasts. These solutions will help
you get rid, or at least keep the grub worms under control.
We carry a product in the nursery called Bayer Advance Grub Control. This is effective in killing
the grubs or we can send our chemical crew out to treat for you using industrial strength
chemicals. Give us a call today at 407-2727 for more information.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Eliminating Grub Worms? What to Do

Eliminating Grub Worms? What to Do? Beetles usually lay their eggs during early summer.
After these eggs hatch, they turn into nasty pests, known as grub worms. Grub worms then tunnel
underground and feast on the roots of plants and grasses until the winter or fall season. If you will
notice, this sort of problem is like a cycle and it seems that there isn't a permanent solution to get
rid of them. It is a cycle because these grub worms will soon mature and turn into adult beetles,
and again, laying eggs in your lawn or garden that soon will become grub worms.
Natural way to Getting Rid of Grub Worms Here are the steps to rid your lawn or garden of
these grub worms naturally:

1. You already know you have a grub worm problem, now you have to determine when the
beetles start laying their eggs.

2. Nematodes are the natural enemies of grub worms. They infest and kill these pests.
However, they are only effective on young larvae. This is where your research will come
in. Once it is the season of beetles to lay their eggs, purchase nematodes from a gardening
store and follow the instructions indicated. Spray on your lawn or garden.

3. To offset the damage caused by the grub worms, keep your garden or lawn watered.
Abundant water will make the damaged roots easily absorb water.

4. Robins and other songbirds love grub worms. Have them in your garden and you will
have to worry less about those pests. This is probably the best long-term solution you

Grub worms are serious pests especially to those gardening enthusiasts. These solutions will help
you get rid, or at least keep the grub worms under control.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Treatment for Grub Worms

Treatment for Grub Worms
Treatment for Grub Worms
Grub worms have a white segmented body with a brown head and six scraggly legs at the front of the body. Their backside is usually a dark brown to black under stretched skin and looks a lot like a reservoir of fecal matter, often bulging from their feeding indulgences.
Noting damage caused by grubs is pretty easy. They feed on turf roots, so grass they are feeding on turns brown and dies. Main feeding times are right after hatching from eggs in August and September, for about 3-4 weeks before they hibernate for the winter. After spring temperatures start to rise, they will begin feeding on turf roots again for a few weeks as they build up strength to morph into beetles.
If you have browning spots in your lawn, check for grubs by pulling up the grass. If the turf comes up like a piece of carpet, then you likely have a grub problem (you’ll probably even see a few when you lift the grass up).
Another sure sign, if you live near a wooded area, is that your yard will suddenly have holes overnight. This is from creatures like skunks, raccoons, armadillos, birds and other animals that love the juicy taste of these nasty little worms.
If you aren’t seeing a lot of damage, but know that you had a serious Japanese Beetle problem last summer, then you can still check to see if their larva are around by digging. Dig one square foot out of your lawn about 4 inches deep. One or two grubs in that space aren’t really cause for concern or treatment. However, if you’re seeing 4-7 grubs or more in a square foot of soil, you’ve probably got a problem on your hands.
Preventative Maintenance
Living in an area with a large population of Japanese Beetles in the past few years, it stands to reason that those of us in the Midwest (Oklahoma, Missouri, Arkansas, etc.) likely have grubs in our soil. One step you can take is to apply insecticides regardless of whether you know you have a problem or not. It’s sort of like having insurance on your turf – your treating the possibility of a problem before it actually becomes a problem.
Regardless of whether you’re treating the lawn for preventative maintenance or know that you have a grub problem, the best time to treat for them is during late summer and early fall, when they are feeding the most. They get too deep in the soil during winter hibernation and are so large and on the verge of becoming beetles that treatment is virtually ineffective during winter and spring months. You want the grubs to have hatched (around August) and to be young and venerable.
As mentioned, insecticides are effective at treating grubs. Keep in mind, however, that they only last 2-3 weeks and may require additional applications. These insecticides are easy enough to find at your local hardware or lawn care store – they will be clearly marked for grub treatment. They all seem to work on an equal plain.
Natural Alternatives
If you prefer to use a natural grub treatment, there are some effective options available. Milky spores, available at your local lawn care store, are one option. You simply apply the spores to the lawn and the grubs ingest them while feeding. These grubs die and spread more spores, killing off other grubs.
Neem oil is a natural pesticide, mixed with water and applied to the lawn. It inhibits the egg laying process in regard to Japanese Beetles, and also inhibits the hatching, growth and feeding process of the grubs already established.
You can also add nematodes to your lawn – a small worm that releases bacteria into the soil that won’t affect your plants or turf, but kills grubs. These worms are so small that they come in a liquid form that is typically mixed with water and sprayed on your lawn.

Friday, November 2, 2012

Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way

Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way

By Lance Mohr

Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way
Grub worms can become a major problem for homeowners in the Tampa and Tampa Bay area. If grub worms are not dealt with, they can cause serious problems for a person's lawn. If you are a resident of the Tampa area, you will want to have some basic information about grub worms and how you can control a grub worm problem in your own lawn.
Grub worms actually are the larvae of certain types of beetles. Before becoming adults, grub worms spend up to four weeks feeding on the roots of grass in a person's lawn. The process of grub worms eating grass roots can end up destroying a once beautiful lawn in a short period of time. The damage caused by grub room infestation can end up being permanent if a homeowner does not intervene promptly.
There are number of signs that you should be aware of when it comes to a grub worm infestation. First of all, the grass blades will start to turn yellow. Second, because the roots of the grass are destroyed, the turf itself actually can be "rolled up" as there remains nothing anchoring it into the ground any longer.
Before any of these telltale signs of grub worm infestation are evident, you can test for grub worms manually. To do this, cut a square foot out of the lawn four inches thick. If you find over four grub worms in the test patch, you need to take action to get rid of the infestation. However, if you only have a couple of grub worms in the patch, you do not need to take corrective action immediately. A couple of grub worms in the test patch are not enough to do real and lasting damage to your lawn.
If you do find that you have a grub worm infestation, there are some natural techniques that you can employ to solve the problem. From your local garden supply store you can purchase what are known as nematodes. These are microscopic critters that will work to eradicate and prevent the emergence of additional grub worms in your lawn. These nematodes will not cause any harm to your lawn whatsoever.
In addition, you should only lightly water your lawn when you realize that you have a grub worm problem. Light watering helps to offset the damage that has been sustained to the roots because of the activity of the grub worms.
Finally, there are steps you can take to attract certain birds to your yard that enjoy dining on grub worms. These birds will help eradicate the grubs from your lawn in a very short amount of time.
By following these tips and pointers, you will be in the best possible position to rid your lawn of harmful grub worms. You will be able to maintain a healthy and lovely looking lawn, a lawn that will be the envy of the entire neighborhood today and into the future.
Lance Mohr is a full time, full service licensed broker associate with Keller Williams Realty. He has many years of experience helping families buy and sell Tampa Real Estate. Please feel free to copy any of his articles as long as you credit the author and retain the link to his website above
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Controlling grubs in garden and lawns

We have a native grass grub here in NZ that comes from the scarab beetle. They are the reason that the birds, especially blackbirds mess up lawns in winter as they dig down to get these grubs. The local university landscaped grounds have large patches of decimated lawns each year as the birds have a field day. They need a good lecture!

In other countries, grub worms or white worms are similar and can be the grub of several beetles, most commonly the iridescent, brown and green Japanese beetle. The grubs hatch about mid summer and the beetles fly around and eat leaves, particularly of roses, some fruit trees, grapes, maples and many other leafy plants and weeds.

Over 4-6 weeks female Japanese beetles go through many cycles of eating, mating then burrowing deep into the soil to lay eggs, particularly in grassy hills, paddocks and lawns. In late summer to autumn/fall, the eggs develop into larvae (grubs) and wriggle upwards to feed on plant roots and other organic soil contents. Once the grubs have eaten enough and are mature, they then burrow down into the soil to overwinter.

When the soil is warm enough in spring, the grubs head upwards again, pupate into adults (beetles) and take off to feed on leaves.

Milky Spore Disease (Bacillus popilliae), is a recognised control for grass grubs/grub worms/white worms and can be bought online or in garden stores. Soak it into the grub infested soil at their feeding stage, and the grubs ingest it, whereupon the bacteria become alive and cause the grubs to starve and die. These bacteria stay in the soil, and in fact most soils already have some Milky Spore bacteria in them, so if you add more it helps control these grubs.

Other control methods are Beneficial Nematodes and natural predators like parasitic wasps, birds, many good beetles, and even ants will seek out the eggs. Neem oil is also recommended for grubs, but it although it's natural it will kill other insects, so don't use it on your vegetable or flower garden, only use it sparingly on lawns if you really have to.

A few grubs will not be a problem and not worth the effort and challenges to control and kill them because more will always fly in each year from outside areas. If you find one or more grubs in each handful of soil, that's getting to be an infestation which may need action. A popular control method with many people is to simply go out at night with a torch and pick off the beetles from plants and squash them or flick them into a bucket of soapy water. Check the tops of bushes and plants where they congregate and start their feasting

Thursday, November 1, 2012

How to get rid of Grub ?

What to Grub
 You can fool grub worms as a type of worm. But, in fact, they are the larval stage of certain beetles as the Japanese beetle, Oriental beetle, Asiatic garden beetle, adult beetles etc wander in the garden and feed on plants during the early summer. Around July and August, these insects lay their eggs deep in the earth, in the wetlands of the lawn and garden. In a few weeks, the eggs hatch and develop into larvae and larvae are called grub worms. They are plump little worm-like creatures that sport a C-shaped body with a red head and dark back. Grass grub worms feed voraciously on roots and in the process can damage the lawn. Similarly, they feed on the roots of garden plants, causing their death. Even though, they begin to feed as soon as they hatch, grub worms reach their full size in a month and those of this stage would be the source of potential harm to the plants.

Before the advent of winter, they move deep into the soil to hibernate and pupate in May. They emerge as beetles in early summer. Some of these larvae can emerge in spring and feed for a while before pupation stage. But this time, the power is not to cause great harm to plants. The presence of worms in the headless lawn or garden can attract skunks, raccoons, armadillos, moles, etc. These animals can dig in the lawn and garden, while seeking to grub they devour.

How to get rid of Grub
 While grub worms in small numbers may not happen much harm to your garden plants or grass, in large numbers, they can be a serious threat. It has been observed that regular watering, mowing and fertilizing normal can prevent possible damage that may be caused by worms headless. But if a square foot of soil in the lawn or garden has more than five grub worms, then we must seek measures to get rid of them. Even though there are different types of pesticides that can be used to eliminate them, it will always be better to try natural methods of fight against pests, as a first line of defense. If the infestation is not so great, then try to attract predators to grub, like the birds (blackbirds). Try frequent watering, so that the grass recovers lost root.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Home Lawn Grub Control Products 2012

 Home Lawn Grub Control Products 2012

Terry Davis  •  D. R. Smitley :

Lawns turned green much earlier than normal this year because of the incredible period of warm temperatures we had in March. Many folks have already mowed 3 or 4 times. It is that time of year again where patches that did not turn green are becoming obvious in some lawns. Sometimes, a flock of birds can be observed working around the dead patches. These patches may be due to grubs. Before doing anything to control grubs, it is important to make sure that the problem is indeed grubs. If you see a dead patch, dig up a few shovelfuls of soil at the edge of the bare spot and look for 1-inch long, C-shaped grubs. These are more than likely the larvae of European chafer if they are found in non-irrigated turfgrass. European chafer can devastate a lawn with little warning because the adult beetles are not visible to the average person. They do not become active until sunset in late June and early July, and can easily be missed as they move out of the soil and congregate in trees. Since they move back into the grass and lay eggs about 11 pm - the average person would never notice them. European chafer grubs can now be found in all locations in the Lower Peninsula of Michigan.

Japanese beetle grubs also feed on turf roots in home lawns, but they are not as much a problem on grass as European chafer. Japanese beetles like to lay their eggs on irrigated turf like golf courses and athletic fields. They will live in home lawns but rarely cause turf damage because they avoid dry soils. Both Japanese beetle and European chafer lay most of their eggs in July, but Japanese beetles continue laying eggs in August.  The eggs hatch about 10 days later. The grubs begin feeding and grow from the beginning of August until late October. By the end of October, they are fully gown. They spend the winter as large grubs (3/4"-long) some 2 - 6 inches below the soil surface.  When the ground warms up in the spring, they resume feeding and can cause damage from the time the grass turns green until they pupate in mid-May. They are big enough that they can cause damage after Labor Day if enough of them are present. Grub damage may appear in home lawns from mid September to November, or from March to early May. However, for low maintenance lawns, even if the turf is not killed from the grub feeding the thinned and weakened turf may be prone to more problems later in the season, including a new round of grub feeding the next year.
It is important to realize that healthy turf, especially if there is plenty of rain in the spring and fall can support a grub population of 5 or more grubs per square foot with no visible turf damage. A lawn should be mowed at 3.5 to 4.0 inches in height and properly fertilized for maximize root growth. But if the grub population is high, or if there is a history of damage in an area, it may be necessary to consider using chemicals for grub control.
I sent Robert, an undergraduate technician working in our lab, to several of the local lawn and garden centers in the Lansing Area to see what kinds of products are available that specifically claim they will work to control grubs. He went to 4 different stores and found 5 - 9 different products at each store. The profusion of different products can be rather mystifying.
The critical issue with any grub control product is the active ingredient. This can be determined by looking at the label on the bag. The active ingredient and % composition information can usually be found on the bottom right or left of the front of the bag. The second major concern is to make sure any product is thoroughly watered into the ground with at least a half inch or irrigation or rain immediately after the chemical is applied. There are 2 main strategies for grub control - preventive chemicals and curative chemicals. There are also products for sale that list grubs on the label - but will not work for grubs.
1)    PREVENTIVE PRODUCTS to prevent grubs next Fall (2012) and Spring (2013)
The interesting question when considering whether to use a preventive grub control product is "do I really need to?" These products should be applied before the grubs are large enough to be easily found. Grub damage, confirmed by the presence of lots of grubs in the spring (or previous fall) may very well indicate a grub preventive would be a good thing. If your neighbors have problems or if there is evidence of skunks or raccoons tearing up the turf to feed on the grubs, these are indications to look in your lawn in the spring, to see if grubs are present. As stated earlier, up to 5 grubs per square foot can be tolerated without there being any evident damage to the turf. If you sample several places in the yard and find that many of the spots sampled have more than 5 per ft2, then consider a preventive compound application in the early summer. If you have treated for several years and you do not see evidence of grubs in your lawn or in the neighbor's lawn, it may be time to stop treating.  There is an erroneous philosophy being perpetuated that because we have European chafer and Japanese beetle in the area, it is necessary to treat every year or your lawn will be damaged by grubs. This is not true.
Preventive products work best at controlling grubs.
Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, halofenozide or chlorantraniloprole WILL NOT CONTROL GRUBS IN THE SPRING. They are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs present in July, but do not work well for large grubs found from September to May. There are different recommended timings for application depending on the ingredient you buy. Although the bag often says apply anytime from May to Aug 15, it is highly recommended that products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or halofenazide be applied and irrigated into the soil during June or July. If applied in the spring or fall, they will have no effect on the grubs currently in the lawn and may degrade or move through the soil by the time the grubs hatch in late July. Preventative applications should target the newly hatched grubs. Therefore, it's best to apply preventative products prior to July 15 so that the material can move into the soil to control the grubs that would be causing damage that fall and the following spring.
Preventive products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, or halofenozide, when irrigated into the ground and applied between June 1st and mid-July, will consistently give 75%-100% reduction of grubs.
There is a new active ingredient called chlorantraniliprole that is also very effective in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the three preventive compounds mentioned above. Since it takes quite a bit longer to move down to where the grubs will be, it is best to apply a product containing chorantraniliprole as early in the spring as is possible (no later than early May) for it to be most effective when the grubs hatch in July and Aug.
Chorantraniliprole, when applied in April or early May, and irrigated into the ground, will also give very good grub reductions for the following fall and spring of the next year.

There are two chemicals, carbaryl and trichlorfon, that are considered curative treatments. They are short lived compounds that kill the active grubs. These are the only options available if high numbers of grubs are found in the fall after Labor Day and in the spring before early-May. Our research indicates they will kill 20-55% of the population. They are not as effective as the preventive compounds in reducing grub numbers. Consider carefully whether it would be best to wait and apply a preventive later. If the need should arise to use a curative compound, make sure to keep the infested lawn watered and fertilized and treat the area again with a preventive application the next summer or the problem will likely reoccur in the fall or the next spring. Current research also shows that watering with ½ inch of irrigation immediately after the application will increase the effectiveness of the insecticides. Our research has indicated that carbaryl has been a little more effective on European chafer grubs than trichlorfon. Both compounds work equally well on Japanese beetle grubs. It will take 10-14 days for the grubs to begin to die. One trichlorfon product called 'Bayer Advanced 24 Hour Grub Control' seems to indicate by the name that it will kill grubs in 24 hours. However, even trichlorfon should not be evaluated for at least 5 days after application (assuming it rains or irrigation was applied), and carbaryl may need 3 - 4 weeks to be effective.  Do not apply any curative compounds in the spring after May 15th as the grubs stop feeding in late May.
Do not use products containing ONLY lambda-cyhalothrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for grub control.  PRODUCTS CONTAINING ONLY THESE INGREDIENTS WILL NOT WORK FOR GRUB CONTROL because the active compound binds with organic material and will not move down to where the grubs are feeding. These products work well for above-ground feeding insects that live on the grass leaves or soil surface but not for insects that feed on the roots. There are a few combination products that include one of the above mentioned chemicals and one of the preventive compounds listed in section 1 above. These combination products will work to prevent grubs if applied in the early summer because they include a product that will move down to where the grubs are feeding. But I did find one product that said it would control grubs that contained only gamma-cyhalothrin. We tested this product in 2006 and the results were the same as doing nothing at all.

  • Check the bag to determine what active ingredient the product contains
  • Do not use products containing only lambda-cyhalothin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for any phase of grub control.
  • Do not use preventive compounds such as halfenozide, thiamethoxam or imidacloprid now. Use them in June or July to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall.
  • The preventive compound chlorantraniliprole should be applied in late April or Early May to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall, as it will take longer for the material to move to where the grubs will be feeding in July.
  • To kill grubs in the spring ­(or fall) use carbaryl or trichlorfon and irrigate. Make sure the turf is watered with ½" of irrigation (see what is a ½" below) and fertilized.
  • Always wear rubber gloves and rubber boots when applying insecticides to turfgrass.  Make sure to irrigate the lawn with at least ½ inch of water and allow the grass to dry before allowing anyone (or pets) into the treated area.
  • Store insecticide products in a locked cabinet not accessible to children.
What is a ½" of irrigation?  A ½" of irrigation is when lawn sprinklers are run until a coffee mug (or several mugs) fills to a level ½" up from the bottom of the cup.

A short list of products now being sold for grub control as of 4/20/2012 in the 4 stores checked in the mid-Michigan area.
Gardentech Sevin Lawn Insect Granules
carbaryl 2.0%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

(local distributors name) Lawn Insect Control and Fertilizer
carbaryl 4.3% and fertilizer
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus
trichlorfon 9.3%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

Scotts Grub-Ex
chlorantraniliprole 0.08%
Apply between April 15 and May 15 for best results.

Bonide Grub Beater
imidacloprid 0.5%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

ImiGold 0.5% G
imidacloprid 0.5%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Imida Pro 2SC
imidacloprid 21.4% (must be diluted in water and sprayed)
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer
imidacloprid 0.25% and fertilizer
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer
cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

(local distributors name) Premium Grub Control (Do not confuse with "Premium Insect Control")
imidacloprid 0.2%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer Once and Done Granules
gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
Will not kill grubs at any rate.
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