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Showing posts with label Natural Way. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Natural Way. Show all posts

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Eliminating Grub Worms? What to Do

Eliminating Grub Worms? What to Do? Beetles usually lay their eggs during early summer.
After these eggs hatch, they turn into nasty pests, known as grub worms. Grub worms then tunnel
underground and feast on the roots of plants and grasses until the winter or fall season. If you will
notice, this sort of problem is like a cycle and it seems that there isn't a permanent solution to get
rid of them. It is a cycle because these grub worms will soon mature and turn into adult beetles,
and again, laying eggs in your lawn or garden that soon will become grub worms.
Natural way to Getting Rid of Grub Worms Here are the steps to rid your lawn or garden of
these grub worms naturally:

1. You already know you have a grub worm problem, now you have to determine when the
beetles start laying their eggs.

2. Nematodes are the natural enemies of grub worms. They infest and kill these pests.
However, they are only effective on young larvae. This is where your research will come
in. Once it is the season of beetles to lay their eggs, purchase nematodes from a gardening
store and follow the instructions indicated. Spray on your lawn or garden.

3. To offset the damage caused by the grub worms, keep your garden or lawn watered.
Abundant water will make the damaged roots easily absorb water.

4. Robins and other songbirds love grub worms. Have them in your garden and you will
have to worry less about those pests. This is probably the best long-term solution you
have.

Grub worms are serious pests especially to those gardening enthusiasts. These solutions will help
you get rid, or at least keep the grub worms under control.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Treatment for Grub Worms



Treatment for Grub Worms
Treatment for Grub Worms
Appearance
Grub worms have a white segmented body with a brown head and six scraggly legs at the front of the body. Their backside is usually a dark brown to black under stretched skin and looks a lot like a reservoir of fecal matter, often bulging from their feeding indulgences.
Damage
Noting damage caused by grubs is pretty easy. They feed on turf roots, so grass they are feeding on turns brown and dies. Main feeding times are right after hatching from eggs in August and September, for about 3-4 weeks before they hibernate for the winter. After spring temperatures start to rise, they will begin feeding on turf roots again for a few weeks as they build up strength to morph into beetles.
If you have browning spots in your lawn, check for grubs by pulling up the grass. If the turf comes up like a piece of carpet, then you likely have a grub problem (you’ll probably even see a few when you lift the grass up).
Another sure sign, if you live near a wooded area, is that your yard will suddenly have holes overnight. This is from creatures like skunks, raccoons, armadillos, birds and other animals that love the juicy taste of these nasty little worms.
If you aren’t seeing a lot of damage, but know that you had a serious Japanese Beetle problem last summer, then you can still check to see if their larva are around by digging. Dig one square foot out of your lawn about 4 inches deep. One or two grubs in that space aren’t really cause for concern or treatment. However, if you’re seeing 4-7 grubs or more in a square foot of soil, you’ve probably got a problem on your hands.
Preventative Maintenance
Living in an area with a large population of Japanese Beetles in the past few years, it stands to reason that those of us in the Midwest (Oklahoma, Missouri, Arkansas, etc.) likely have grubs in our soil. One step you can take is to apply insecticides regardless of whether you know you have a problem or not. It’s sort of like having insurance on your turf – your treating the possibility of a problem before it actually becomes a problem.
Treatment
Regardless of whether you’re treating the lawn for preventative maintenance or know that you have a grub problem, the best time to treat for them is during late summer and early fall, when they are feeding the most. They get too deep in the soil during winter hibernation and are so large and on the verge of becoming beetles that treatment is virtually ineffective during winter and spring months. You want the grubs to have hatched (around August) and to be young and venerable.
As mentioned, insecticides are effective at treating grubs. Keep in mind, however, that they only last 2-3 weeks and may require additional applications. These insecticides are easy enough to find at your local hardware or lawn care store – they will be clearly marked for grub treatment. They all seem to work on an equal plain.
Natural Alternatives
If you prefer to use a natural grub treatment, there are some effective options available. Milky spores, available at your local lawn care store, are one option. You simply apply the spores to the lawn and the grubs ingest them while feeding. These grubs die and spread more spores, killing off other grubs.
Neem oil is a natural pesticide, mixed with water and applied to the lawn. It inhibits the egg laying process in regard to Japanese Beetles, and also inhibits the hatching, growth and feeding process of the grubs already established.
You can also add nematodes to your lawn – a small worm that releases bacteria into the soil that won’t affect your plants or turf, but kills grubs. These worms are so small that they come in a liquid form that is typically mixed with water and sprayed on your lawn.

Friday, November 2, 2012

Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way



Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way

By Lance Mohr





Controlling Grub Worms in Your Lawn the Natural Way
Grub worms can become a major problem for homeowners in the Tampa and Tampa Bay area. If grub worms are not dealt with, they can cause serious problems for a person's lawn. If you are a resident of the Tampa area, you will want to have some basic information about grub worms and how you can control a grub worm problem in your own lawn.
Grub worms actually are the larvae of certain types of beetles. Before becoming adults, grub worms spend up to four weeks feeding on the roots of grass in a person's lawn. The process of grub worms eating grass roots can end up destroying a once beautiful lawn in a short period of time. The damage caused by grub room infestation can end up being permanent if a homeowner does not intervene promptly.
There are number of signs that you should be aware of when it comes to a grub worm infestation. First of all, the grass blades will start to turn yellow. Second, because the roots of the grass are destroyed, the turf itself actually can be "rolled up" as there remains nothing anchoring it into the ground any longer.
Before any of these telltale signs of grub worm infestation are evident, you can test for grub worms manually. To do this, cut a square foot out of the lawn four inches thick. If you find over four grub worms in the test patch, you need to take action to get rid of the infestation. However, if you only have a couple of grub worms in the patch, you do not need to take corrective action immediately. A couple of grub worms in the test patch are not enough to do real and lasting damage to your lawn.
If you do find that you have a grub worm infestation, there are some natural techniques that you can employ to solve the problem. From your local garden supply store you can purchase what are known as nematodes. These are microscopic critters that will work to eradicate and prevent the emergence of additional grub worms in your lawn. These nematodes will not cause any harm to your lawn whatsoever.
In addition, you should only lightly water your lawn when you realize that you have a grub worm problem. Light watering helps to offset the damage that has been sustained to the roots because of the activity of the grub worms.
Finally, there are steps you can take to attract certain birds to your yard that enjoy dining on grub worms. These birds will help eradicate the grubs from your lawn in a very short amount of time.
By following these tips and pointers, you will be in the best possible position to rid your lawn of harmful grub worms. You will be able to maintain a healthy and lovely looking lawn, a lawn that will be the envy of the entire neighborhood today and into the future.
Lance Mohr is a full time, full service licensed broker associate with Keller Williams Realty. He has many years of experience helping families buy and sell Tampa Real Estate. Please feel free to copy any of his articles as long as you credit the author and retain the link to his website above
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lance_Mohr

Controlling grubs in garden and lawns


We have a native grass grub here in NZ that comes from the scarab beetle. They are the reason that the birds, especially blackbirds mess up lawns in winter as they dig down to get these grubs. The local university landscaped grounds have large patches of decimated lawns each year as the birds have a field day. They need a good lecture!

In other countries, grub worms or white worms are similar and can be the grub of several beetles, most commonly the iridescent, brown and green Japanese beetle. The grubs hatch about mid summer and the beetles fly around and eat leaves, particularly of roses, some fruit trees, grapes, maples and many other leafy plants and weeds.

Over 4-6 weeks female Japanese beetles go through many cycles of eating, mating then burrowing deep into the soil to lay eggs, particularly in grassy hills, paddocks and lawns. In late summer to autumn/fall, the eggs develop into larvae (grubs) and wriggle upwards to feed on plant roots and other organic soil contents. Once the grubs have eaten enough and are mature, they then burrow down into the soil to overwinter.

When the soil is warm enough in spring, the grubs head upwards again, pupate into adults (beetles) and take off to feed on leaves.

Milky Spore Disease (Bacillus popilliae), is a recognised control for grass grubs/grub worms/white worms and can be bought online or in garden stores. Soak it into the grub infested soil at their feeding stage, and the grubs ingest it, whereupon the bacteria become alive and cause the grubs to starve and die. These bacteria stay in the soil, and in fact most soils already have some Milky Spore bacteria in them, so if you add more it helps control these grubs.

Other control methods are Beneficial Nematodes and natural predators like parasitic wasps, birds, many good beetles, and even ants will seek out the eggs. Neem oil is also recommended for grubs, but it although it's natural it will kill other insects, so don't use it on your vegetable or flower garden, only use it sparingly on lawns if you really have to.

A few grubs will not be a problem and not worth the effort and challenges to control and kill them because more will always fly in each year from outside areas. If you find one or more grubs in each handful of soil, that's getting to be an infestation which may need action. A popular control method with many people is to simply go out at night with a torch and pick off the beetles from plants and squash them or flick them into a bucket of soapy water. Check the tops of bushes and plants where they congregate and start their feasting

Thursday, November 1, 2012

How to get rid of Grub ?


What to Grub
 You can fool grub worms as a type of worm. But, in fact, they are the larval stage of certain beetles as the Japanese beetle, Oriental beetle, Asiatic garden beetle, adult beetles etc wander in the garden and feed on plants during the early summer. Around July and August, these insects lay their eggs deep in the earth, in the wetlands of the lawn and garden. In a few weeks, the eggs hatch and develop into larvae and larvae are called grub worms. They are plump little worm-like creatures that sport a C-shaped body with a red head and dark back. Grass grub worms feed voraciously on roots and in the process can damage the lawn. Similarly, they feed on the roots of garden plants, causing their death. Even though, they begin to feed as soon as they hatch, grub worms reach their full size in a month and those of this stage would be the source of potential harm to the plants.

Before the advent of winter, they move deep into the soil to hibernate and pupate in May. They emerge as beetles in early summer. Some of these larvae can emerge in spring and feed for a while before pupation stage. But this time, the power is not to cause great harm to plants. The presence of worms in the headless lawn or garden can attract skunks, raccoons, armadillos, moles, etc. These animals can dig in the lawn and garden, while seeking to grub they devour.

How to get rid of Grub
 While grub worms in small numbers may not happen much harm to your garden plants or grass, in large numbers, they can be a serious threat. It has been observed that regular watering, mowing and fertilizing normal can prevent possible damage that may be caused by worms headless. But if a square foot of soil in the lawn or garden has more than five grub worms, then we must seek measures to get rid of them. Even though there are different types of pesticides that can be used to eliminate them, it will always be better to try natural methods of fight against pests, as a first line of defense. If the infestation is not so great, then try to attract predators to grub, like the birds (blackbirds). Try frequent watering, so that the grass recovers lost root.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Home Lawn Grub Control Products 2012



 Home Lawn Grub Control Products 2012

Terry Davis  •  D. R. Smitley :

Lawns turned green much earlier than normal this year because of the incredible period of warm temperatures we had in March. Many folks have already mowed 3 or 4 times. It is that time of year again where patches that did not turn green are becoming obvious in some lawns. Sometimes, a flock of birds can be observed working around the dead patches. These patches may be due to grubs. Before doing anything to control grubs, it is important to make sure that the problem is indeed grubs. If you see a dead patch, dig up a few shovelfuls of soil at the edge of the bare spot and look for 1-inch long, C-shaped grubs. These are more than likely the larvae of European chafer if they are found in non-irrigated turfgrass. European chafer can devastate a lawn with little warning because the adult beetles are not visible to the average person. They do not become active until sunset in late June and early July, and can easily be missed as they move out of the soil and congregate in trees. Since they move back into the grass and lay eggs about 11 pm - the average person would never notice them. European chafer grubs can now be found in all locations in the Lower Peninsula of Michigan.

Japanese beetle grubs also feed on turf roots in home lawns, but they are not as much a problem on grass as European chafer. Japanese beetles like to lay their eggs on irrigated turf like golf courses and athletic fields. They will live in home lawns but rarely cause turf damage because they avoid dry soils. Both Japanese beetle and European chafer lay most of their eggs in July, but Japanese beetles continue laying eggs in August.  The eggs hatch about 10 days later. The grubs begin feeding and grow from the beginning of August until late October. By the end of October, they are fully gown. They spend the winter as large grubs (3/4"-long) some 2 - 6 inches below the soil surface.  When the ground warms up in the spring, they resume feeding and can cause damage from the time the grass turns green until they pupate in mid-May. They are big enough that they can cause damage after Labor Day if enough of them are present. Grub damage may appear in home lawns from mid September to November, or from March to early May. However, for low maintenance lawns, even if the turf is not killed from the grub feeding the thinned and weakened turf may be prone to more problems later in the season, including a new round of grub feeding the next year.
It is important to realize that healthy turf, especially if there is plenty of rain in the spring and fall can support a grub population of 5 or more grubs per square foot with no visible turf damage. A lawn should be mowed at 3.5 to 4.0 inches in height and properly fertilized for maximize root growth. But if the grub population is high, or if there is a history of damage in an area, it may be necessary to consider using chemicals for grub control.
I sent Robert, an undergraduate technician working in our lab, to several of the local lawn and garden centers in the Lansing Area to see what kinds of products are available that specifically claim they will work to control grubs. He went to 4 different stores and found 5 - 9 different products at each store. The profusion of different products can be rather mystifying.
The critical issue with any grub control product is the active ingredient. This can be determined by looking at the label on the bag. The active ingredient and % composition information can usually be found on the bottom right or left of the front of the bag. The second major concern is to make sure any product is thoroughly watered into the ground with at least a half inch or irrigation or rain immediately after the chemical is applied. There are 2 main strategies for grub control - preventive chemicals and curative chemicals. There are also products for sale that list grubs on the label - but will not work for grubs.
1)    PREVENTIVE PRODUCTS to prevent grubs next Fall (2012) and Spring (2013)
The interesting question when considering whether to use a preventive grub control product is "do I really need to?" These products should be applied before the grubs are large enough to be easily found. Grub damage, confirmed by the presence of lots of grubs in the spring (or previous fall) may very well indicate a grub preventive would be a good thing. If your neighbors have problems or if there is evidence of skunks or raccoons tearing up the turf to feed on the grubs, these are indications to look in your lawn in the spring, to see if grubs are present. As stated earlier, up to 5 grubs per square foot can be tolerated without there being any evident damage to the turf. If you sample several places in the yard and find that many of the spots sampled have more than 5 per ft2, then consider a preventive compound application in the early summer. If you have treated for several years and you do not see evidence of grubs in your lawn or in the neighbor's lawn, it may be time to stop treating.  There is an erroneous philosophy being perpetuated that because we have European chafer and Japanese beetle in the area, it is necessary to treat every year or your lawn will be damaged by grubs. This is not true.
Preventive products work best at controlling grubs.
Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, halofenozide or chlorantraniloprole WILL NOT CONTROL GRUBS IN THE SPRING. They are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs present in July, but do not work well for large grubs found from September to May. There are different recommended timings for application depending on the ingredient you buy. Although the bag often says apply anytime from May to Aug 15, it is highly recommended that products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or halofenazide be applied and irrigated into the soil during June or July. If applied in the spring or fall, they will have no effect on the grubs currently in the lawn and may degrade or move through the soil by the time the grubs hatch in late July. Preventative applications should target the newly hatched grubs. Therefore, it's best to apply preventative products prior to July 15 so that the material can move into the soil to control the grubs that would be causing damage that fall and the following spring.
Preventive products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, or halofenozide, when irrigated into the ground and applied between June 1st and mid-July, will consistently give 75%-100% reduction of grubs.
There is a new active ingredient called chlorantraniliprole that is also very effective in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the three preventive compounds mentioned above. Since it takes quite a bit longer to move down to where the grubs will be, it is best to apply a product containing chorantraniliprole as early in the spring as is possible (no later than early May) for it to be most effective when the grubs hatch in July and Aug.
Chorantraniliprole, when applied in April or early May, and irrigated into the ground, will also give very good grub reductions for the following fall and spring of the next year.

2)  CURATIVE PRODUCTS - 
There are two chemicals, carbaryl and trichlorfon, that are considered curative treatments. They are short lived compounds that kill the active grubs. These are the only options available if high numbers of grubs are found in the fall after Labor Day and in the spring before early-May. Our research indicates they will kill 20-55% of the population. They are not as effective as the preventive compounds in reducing grub numbers. Consider carefully whether it would be best to wait and apply a preventive later. If the need should arise to use a curative compound, make sure to keep the infested lawn watered and fertilized and treat the area again with a preventive application the next summer or the problem will likely reoccur in the fall or the next spring. Current research also shows that watering with ½ inch of irrigation immediately after the application will increase the effectiveness of the insecticides. Our research has indicated that carbaryl has been a little more effective on European chafer grubs than trichlorfon. Both compounds work equally well on Japanese beetle grubs. It will take 10-14 days for the grubs to begin to die. One trichlorfon product called 'Bayer Advanced 24 Hour Grub Control' seems to indicate by the name that it will kill grubs in 24 hours. However, even trichlorfon should not be evaluated for at least 5 days after application (assuming it rains or irrigation was applied), and carbaryl may need 3 - 4 weeks to be effective.  Do not apply any curative compounds in the spring after May 15th as the grubs stop feeding in late May.
3)  INSECTICIDES THAT DO NOT WORK. 
Do not use products containing ONLY lambda-cyhalothrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for grub control.  PRODUCTS CONTAINING ONLY THESE INGREDIENTS WILL NOT WORK FOR GRUB CONTROL because the active compound binds with organic material and will not move down to where the grubs are feeding. These products work well for above-ground feeding insects that live on the grass leaves or soil surface but not for insects that feed on the roots. There are a few combination products that include one of the above mentioned chemicals and one of the preventive compounds listed in section 1 above. These combination products will work to prevent grubs if applied in the early summer because they include a product that will move down to where the grubs are feeding. But I did find one product that said it would control grubs that contained only gamma-cyhalothrin. We tested this product in 2006 and the results were the same as doing nothing at all.

IN SUMMARY:
  • Check the bag to determine what active ingredient the product contains
  • Do not use products containing only lambda-cyhalothin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for any phase of grub control.
  • Do not use preventive compounds such as halfenozide, thiamethoxam or imidacloprid now. Use them in June or July to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall.
  • The preventive compound chlorantraniliprole should be applied in late April or Early May to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall, as it will take longer for the material to move to where the grubs will be feeding in July.
  • To kill grubs in the spring ­(or fall) use carbaryl or trichlorfon and irrigate. Make sure the turf is watered with ½" of irrigation (see what is a ½" below) and fertilized.
  • Always wear rubber gloves and rubber boots when applying insecticides to turfgrass.  Make sure to irrigate the lawn with at least ½ inch of water and allow the grass to dry before allowing anyone (or pets) into the treated area.
  • Store insecticide products in a locked cabinet not accessible to children.
What is a ½" of irrigation?  A ½" of irrigation is when lawn sprinklers are run until a coffee mug (or several mugs) fills to a level ½" up from the bottom of the cup.

PRODUCTS AVAILABLE:
A short list of products now being sold for grub control as of 4/20/2012 in the 4 stores checked in the mid-Michigan area.
Gardentech Sevin Lawn Insect Granules
carbaryl 2.0%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

(local distributors name) Lawn Insect Control and Fertilizer
carbaryl 4.3% and fertilizer
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus
trichlorfon 9.3%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

Scotts Grub-Ex
chlorantraniliprole 0.08%
Apply between April 15 and May 15 for best results.

Bonide Grub Beater
imidacloprid 0.5%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

ImiGold 0.5% G
imidacloprid 0.5%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Imida Pro 2SC
imidacloprid 21.4% (must be diluted in water and sprayed)
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer
imidacloprid 0.25% and fertilizer
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer
cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

(local distributors name) Premium Grub Control (Do not confuse with "Premium Insect Control")
imidacloprid 0.2%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer Once and Done Granules
gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
Will not kill grubs at any rate.
source her 

How to Get Rid of Grub Worms



How to Get Rid of Grub Worms

Grub worms are a serious lawn pest that can do incredible damage to your turf if left untreated. If you have brown patches in your grass, you likely have an infestation. Grub worms eat the roots of your grass and can be controlled if you follow the correct procedures. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions





    • 1
      Know how to identify grub worms. They are white with a red head and a dark rear-end. They are C-shaped and usually about the size of the tip of your thumb.
    • 2
      Call your local Agricultural Extension Service and ask when grub worm eggs are typically laid and when the grubs are likely to be active in your area. You will find the phone number in the government section of your phone book.

    • 3
      Sample your yard in the month the eggs are laid and again in the month the grubs are most active. To sample your yard for grub worms, cut three sides of a 1-foot square of grass with a shovel and lift up the grass to make a flap. If you see more than five grubs, treatment is necessary.
    • 4
      Purchase beneficial nematodes from your local gardening center. These are microscopic organisms that feed on larvae. Mix the nematodes with water as directed on the package, and spray your grass with the mixture.
    • 5
      Keep your lawn lightly-watered to help offset the root damage caused by grub worms.
    • 6
      Attract worm-eating birds like robins and other song birds to your backyard. They are typically fond of eating grubs for breakfast.


source

How to spray on the lawn Grub Worms

How to spray on the lawn grubs
 first step:

Cut 6 × 6-inch hole in the grass and check beneath the soil three inches of Horticulture, University of Rhode Island plans said, this process is best in early August, when most of the summer laying eggs hatch into larvae repeated several times, the entire yard.

Step two:

Count of uprooted region found that the number of grubs Purdue University Extension Garden prompted the recommendation of the site, consider treatment program in the fall, if more than five grubs per square foot.

Third step:

To purchase the efficacy the GRUB killer spray or granular efficacy GRUB killer.

Step four:

The efficacy spray on the lawn grubs killer, covering the entire lawn, but focus on the flakes, brown granular insecticides should be applied with some varieties of seed sowing Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Association proposed to apply grub killer in less than 80 degrees, low humidity and cool weather, but when rain is expected.

Step five:

Water to grass grub killer, if it does not rain is expected in the near future.

Step Six:

Purchased the grubs prevention control 7.

Step Seven:

Sprayed on the lawn on preventive grub killer granular insecticides should be applied to sow homeowners University of Illinois and some varieties of seed are said to apply preventive grub killer in July, regardless of any instructions on the bags, because this is the year time, the older grubs are the maximum and new eggs hatch.

Step eight:

Lawn

Prevention of water into the soil grubs killer.

Insects ,Grub Worms alternative sources of protein


About 25 million people around the world eat insects 
Grub Worms alternative sources of protein
Grub Worms alternative sources of protein

The EU plans to spend $ 3 million euros (about 3.95 million U.S. dollars), to study the feasibility of insects as a protein alternative sources, the research program will be finalized this year. The food experts said that if the insects as a protein alternative sources of Europeans, "camouflage" of insects. Insect "food" can act as Hamburg, as well as other fast-food additives. The British Food Standards Agency, said in referring to the research program: the UK and other EU countries and not insects as food traditions It is estimated that about 25 million people around the world often edible food add insects Although many insects are pests, but the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations or of edible insects is full of interest, and is committed to it as a highly sustainable source of nutrition. " Some earthworm protein content is three times that of beef, the four crickets calcium content will be comparable with a glass of milk. Islands Restaurant London chef Daniel - Kerry Washington, said: "If the insects from entering the human food chain, they may have to go through 'camouflage'. Food manufacturers seem should be described as animal-based protein, after all, not many people are willing to buy locusts Hamburg. "Kerry Washington ants, grasshoppers and bees made food, entertain guests from all directions.
Grub Worms alternative sources of protein
Grub Worms alternative sources of protein

The Treehugger website that: "The research and development of insect-based food additive used to increase the protein content of burgers and chicken nuggets, This is not hard to imagine things. Chain stores the name of 'higher levels of protein', 'healthy fats ', and of' ecological Hamburg 'slogan sales use hamburger meat made of treated insects. " 80% of the countries in the world, insects as food, human regular consumption of more than 1000 kinds of insect species. And livestock, insects only need a small space, feeding, use of natural lighting, garbage, paper and algae can act as feed in a closed building. Prior to this, the United Nations and the European Union in favor of the development of insect food practices for addressing the food shortage. Some scholars believe that the economic and environmental costs faced by raising livestock means turning to the insect will become an inevitable approach. It is estimated that by the end of this decade, edible insects will become very common. Wageningen University Professor Marcel - Dick said: "What is most important is to let people be psychologically prepared for the gradual acceptance of the idea. Since 2020, left to our choice is not much."
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