The grubs most harming have a tendency to be the grubs from Japanese Beetles, June Beetles and European Chafer. Here are some naturally neighborly procedures for controlling them.
1. A solid grass is your best protection, so finished seed your yard to keep it decent and thick. Likewise, the more solid your garden, the less harmed it will show up. Maintain a strategic distance from grass blends with frail roots like Kentucky Blue Grass.
2. Pull in more grub-eating flying creatures to your yard with water, settling and feeders. Certain types of winged creatures, similar to European starlings, blue-jays, purple martins, crows, grackles, meadowlarks, cardinals, blackbirds and robins all eat grubs. Starlings, robins and cardinals will likewise eat grown-up Japanese bugs. You can run a rake over tainted zones to help turn up developing grubs for going to flying creatures.
3. Raising the deck on your lawnmower will energize more arachnids and ants, both of which will help control the grub populace.
4. Hand pick the grown-up Japanese bugs. To recognize grown-up Japanese creepy crawlies, search for 3/8-inch long metallic green bugs with copper-darker wing covers. They can be recognized from other comparative looking insects by the five little white tufts that venture from under the wing covers on each side, and a 6th combine at the tip of the midriff.
5. I've never tried this, but certain flowers that contain geraniol, like white geraniums, 4 o'clocks (mirabilis), larkspur, red and dwarf buckeye and castor bean plants are supposed to attract and poison adult Japanese beetles. If nothing else, they may attract the pests to one area where you can spray them with a soapy insecticide or remove them by hand.
6. Apply Parasitic Nematodes. Upon penetrating a grub, the nematode inoculates the grub with the bacteria. The bacteria reproduce quickly, feeding on the grub tissue. The nematode then feeds on this bacteria and progresses through its own life cycle, reproducing and ultimately killing the grub. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora is a type of commercially available nematode for grubs.
7. Milky Spore. This is a bacterium that once ingested by grubs, builds up in their blood, eventually causing their death. It's considered a long term solution and is usually used in areas experiencing severe infestations. Its needs to be applied over the course of a couple of seasons (2-4 years) in order for it to build up in the soil. After that, it is supposed to last for a decade or longer. Ask your local garden center or extension office where to get milky spore in your area.
1. A solid grass is your best protection, so finished seed your yard to keep it decent and thick. Likewise, the more solid your garden, the less harmed it will show up. Maintain a strategic distance from grass blends with frail roots like Kentucky Blue Grass.
2. Pull in more grub-eating flying creatures to your yard with water, settling and feeders. Certain types of winged creatures, similar to European starlings, blue-jays, purple martins, crows, grackles, meadowlarks, cardinals, blackbirds and robins all eat grubs. Starlings, robins and cardinals will likewise eat grown-up Japanese bugs. You can run a rake over tainted zones to help turn up developing grubs for going to flying creatures.
3. Raising the deck on your lawnmower will energize more arachnids and ants, both of which will help control the grub populace.
4. Hand pick the grown-up Japanese bugs. To recognize grown-up Japanese creepy crawlies, search for 3/8-inch long metallic green bugs with copper-darker wing covers. They can be recognized from other comparative looking insects by the five little white tufts that venture from under the wing covers on each side, and a 6th combine at the tip of the midriff.
5. I've never tried this, but certain flowers that contain geraniol, like white geraniums, 4 o'clocks (mirabilis), larkspur, red and dwarf buckeye and castor bean plants are supposed to attract and poison adult Japanese beetles. If nothing else, they may attract the pests to one area where you can spray them with a soapy insecticide or remove them by hand.
6. Apply Parasitic Nematodes. Upon penetrating a grub, the nematode inoculates the grub with the bacteria. The bacteria reproduce quickly, feeding on the grub tissue. The nematode then feeds on this bacteria and progresses through its own life cycle, reproducing and ultimately killing the grub. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora is a type of commercially available nematode for grubs.
7. Milky Spore. This is a bacterium that once ingested by grubs, builds up in their blood, eventually causing their death. It's considered a long term solution and is usually used in areas experiencing severe infestations. Its needs to be applied over the course of a couple of seasons (2-4 years) in order for it to build up in the soil. After that, it is supposed to last for a decade or longer. Ask your local garden center or extension office where to get milky spore in your area.
